We return to the subject of cocoa masses with gelato Maestro Stefano Ferrara. In the last article we had addressed the various origins, varieties and processing stages of cocoa and how these influence the taste of the product. In fact, there are cocoa masses with more recognizable and intense scents, such as those from Africa, for example from Tanzania and Madagascar, which are distinguished by a distinct acidity reminiscent of red fruits and raspberry, thanks in part to fermentation and drying. In creating flavors with masses of different origins and processing Stefano is surprised by the diversity of the more or less experienced palates he finds among his customers. “I for one am fond of these acidic masses, acidity is a characteristic I also look for a lot in coffees, for example. However, I have learned to pay attention to what my customers are looking for; not all customers appreciate the distinct acidity that I am so passionate about, although I usually always explain the characteristics of my gelato.” He tells us that if we use cocoa masses with Asian origins for example, where due to the rainy weather woord fire is used for the drying process, we always find a smoky aftertaste. Although it is considered a flaw it is not uncommon for the customer to appreciate it, since smoky is a more common taste and one they are familiar with.”
One idea to make customers perceive the differences between cocoa masses and be curious about them can be to create different recipes, making them compare, for example, a taste with an African cocoa mass with one from Venezuela or a Vietnamese and a Colombian.
Stefano is keen to emphasize the importance in remembering that cocoa mass-based gelatos do not have a dark color, which is imparted to industrial chocolate by potash processes. The color of gelato with non-potassized cocoa mass tends to hazelnut or light red, depending on how much mass is put into the recipe. This characteristic also needs to be explained to the customer, because if he or she is an inexperienced person, he or she will tend to be wary of light chocolate, used to the darkened product color of commercial products.
Remember not to confuse chocolate gelato created with chocolate, which is a product with added sugar or honey and often cocoa butter, and gelato with cocoa mass, without any additions. For Stefano, sugar is also an important feature in creating cocoa mass recipes. “In my workshop I tend not to mix different sugars to convey the flavor well without making synergies between different sugars. So I use cocoa mass, water and one sugar.” The gelato maker can also create a blend of cocoa masses, depending on the product he or she wants to achieve. “I usually use one gram of thickener, tare, and no more. I have a very short ingredient list, aimed at getting the most out of the cocoa mass I use.”
Air is also an important component of cocoa masses, “which is why it has to be stabilized, so cocoa mass flavors are always soft enough in the display case, without using monosaccharides. If you are not careful, there is a risk in some cases that this softness is too much, creating almost mousse-like textures. In my processing I try to contain this aspect.”
My vision is to decline masses according to their flavor. I also really like Peruvian masses for the aromatic complexes they have, in addition to the already mentioned masses originating in Tanzania or Madagascar. There are small producers who create amazing masses, you have to know how to search and try in the laboratory thinking about what is your own taste and that of your customers. To reflect the original characteristics of the masses I am passionate about, I chose to work at low temperatures (70°C) and not go beyond that, many do but I found my taste balance this way.
“In general I don't boycott those who make gelato with cocoa, of course it doesn't have to be a very potassium cocoa, or make gelato with 70 percent chocolate-there are industries that have very good products. I choose to work in another direction. It is also used to create a perfect aromatic balance by studying blends of masses, I do that too, however I prefer to use them in purity and keep sharp aromatic expressions and some edginess. I do this despite reviews such as “the chocolate was sour,” perhaps written by those who underestimate important other aromatic notes present in the masses. With Madagascar cocoa mass from a small producer I won the Gambero Rosso award dedicated to chocolate, so I think my work is appreciated!”
“As a piece of advice to gelato makers who want to start experimenting with pure masses, let me tell a little anecdote to make people understand how important it is to communicate their products as well as possible. Even the thing that seems the most obvious to us for someone may not be and is worth communicating. Once I had 6 flavors at the counter with masses of as many different origins (all recipes I create water-based, dairy-free and cocoa powder-free). While I was at the counter, a customer approaches, I start explaining my work and the flavors. The customer listens to the explanation, looks at me and says in dialect, “aò, but with all the good things we have in Italy, you had to get chocolate from all these places?”, Stefano realizes that there is a lot of work to do.
Comments (2)
In general, acidity comes from the amount of cocoa mass used and its origin, which as seen characterizes its acidity.
Another way to control acidity could be to create your own blend based on the desired acidity.
I have a question about balancing acidity in cocoa mass gelato. Since some customers may not appreciate the sharp acidity of certain origins, how do you recommend adjusting a recipe to soften that note without overpowering the unique flavors of the mass? Would a specific choice of sugar or another ingredient help round out the taste?
Also, you mentioned keeping a very short ingredient list to let the cocoa mass shine. In your experience, do certain origins benefit more from this minimalist approach, or are there cases where a slight modification enhances the final result?
Merci for sharing your expertise!