THE FLAVOR AND TRADITION OF PASTRY
03/02/2025
Andrea Fiori, a pastry chef for 35 years and an instructor at Carpigiani Gelato University, grew up in the family business where "traditional, classic pastry products have always been part of my life and the inspiration for my training." With the passage of time, "there has been a change in technologies, raw materials, and working methods in the pastry shop, but the focus has always been on maintaining its classic taste. It takes on new shapes and different packaging, but flavor continues to be the focus of our work. I don't disdain modern pastry and all its evolutions, but the Roman maritozzo, the millefeuille, and profiteroles remain the top sellers in our pastry shop."
Andrea tells us that today's customers are looking for different products than in the past but remain tied to tradition: his pastry shop's choice has been to focus on unusual ingredient combinations, well-balanced simple syrups, and above all the search for innovative flavors. "Today, the strawberry that 20 years ago today you could only find fresh is now available in puree, just as pasteurized egg can be purchased in a package. For the first time, after years of pastry tradition, we can balance the recipe and pursue the result desired by analyzing the numbers and proportions of the ingredients. We can decide if and how to lighten the mixes by using different fats, playing with the structures, making different textures, still making the classic flavor of our zabaione, our chocolate prenz cream for profiteroles."
Traditional products are placed in a context that has been renewed thanks to today's tools. In addition to increasing the number of products thanks to new techniques – for example jar cooking – and new market demands, Andrea Fiori confides to us that he cares a great deal about the more traditional aspects of his work, such as their yeast starter, which they have been feeding and caring for every day for 70 years. Speaking of tradition, Andrea cites as an example monumental cakes for special events, classic products that have had to adapt to the demands of esthetics, "Instagrammability," and taste. "Today's monumental cakes must look beautiful, but mainly they must have a taste that delights the palate at the end of an important meal.
In order to create the right balance between form and flavor, we rely both on our experience and the best available technologies, including with respect to balancing and pastry shop management software. Because, applying the technique of balancing to pastry recipes provides greater control over the outcome. However, it’s important to combine this control with the application of proper production and cooking techniques, relying on technology and the organization of production. "Useful technology is the best investment for those thinking of opening their own shop and diversifying production, and it’s also an incentive for those who love our work and our employees because they can create new recipes, formulas, and new offerings for customers. This is the only way we can work with simple ingredients and avoid semi-finished products, managing to preserve craftsmanship and thus flavor."
In order to create the right balance between form and flavor, we rely both on our experience and the best available technologies, including with respect to balancing and pastry shop management software. Because, applying the technique of balancing to pastry recipes provides greater control over the outcome. However, it’s important to combine this control with the application of proper production and cooking techniques, relying on technology and the organization of production. "Useful technology is the best investment for those thinking of opening their own shop and diversifying production, and it’s also an incentive for those who love our work and our employees because they can create new recipes, formulas, and new offerings for customers. This is the only way we can work with simple ingredients and avoid semi-finished products, managing to preserve craftsmanship and thus flavor."
Comments (2)
My starting point for introducing new products and flavors is to propose what I personally like in terms of taste and texture. (This is why my company and brand are called Gourmandia, a made-up name that combines "gourmet" and "gourmande.") Tasting, combining, and experimenting with simple yet bold flavors are the keys to my work.
On a philosophical level, I believe that authentic flavors are best expressed in traditional pastry making, and I don?t think forcing recipes with extreme pairings aligns with my vision. However, our taste buds have changed over the last 20 years due to the use of spices and new ingredients, and I try to take this into account.
I do not follow trends, but I do pay attention to customer demands and needs.
Pastry making has evolved into various types of desserts with different combinations of flavors and textures, while portion sizes have decreased, and product quality has improved.
When it comes to recipe development, I do not add artificial gelling agents, food colorings, preservatives, or emulsifiers. If a recipe is well-balanced, the ingredients naturally "bind" together on their own.
This approach has received a positive response from customers, who continue to choose us after 50 years, rewarding us for our dedication and efforts.
The same principles apply to our sourdough starter: daily care of the yeast ensures that the product remains highly effective without the need for antioxidants, emulsifiers, or preservatives.
Furthermore, we always work with clean labels.
I?d love to hear more about how you decide which innovations to embrace while staying true to tradition. Are there specific techniques or ingredients you avoid to maintain authenticity? Also, with customer preferences evolving, how do you introduce new flavors without alienating those who seek the comfort of classic pastries?
Your dedication to craftsmanship is clear?especially with the care given to a 70-year-old yeast starter! How do you think maintaining such traditions impacts the perception of quality in today?s market?